Thursday, October 30, 2008

Dispatch from Kuwait


Dispatch

It has been a busy week and now we are into week five in this desert country. I discovered that we really don’t need a hot water heater at this time of year, since the water for each building is stored in fiberglass tanks on the roof, it basks in the noon day sun and the evening heat, until turning on the cold tap will produce an infinite supply of very hot water.

Our apartments are the equivalent, maybe a little better, to a university dorm situation. Unfortunately, the company that owns the school did not prepare the apts for our coming. After many complaints from many teachers they began to systematically address all of the issues. Since this place is constantly covered with dust everything is coated inside and outside of buildings. Floors cupboards everything needed cleaning. Curtains and windows are dirty. We got rid of our curtains and had new ones made. Our toilets did not flush; we had cockroaches to contend with etc. Eventually, all of this has been taken care of and we, as a group of teachers, are more content.

The apartment is definitely humble, but Cheryl has found creative ways to make it look attractive, comfortable and colourful. We share a large lobby between the two apartments on our floor where we placed the couches, chairs and tables that we replaced from the apartment. We now have a common sitting area where we can visit and have a sense of more space. As the temperature gets down to the more comfortable mid 30 range in the evenings we can leave the apt door open and not feel quite so claustrophobic.

I started private tutoring for two young girls who attend the American School of Kuwait. One is studying American History and the other world history. This family is an extremely rich one. The father is an investment banker and they own a home in Beverly Hills, where they spend their summers. I was brought to the house by taxi, although they offered me one of their drivers. I was greeted at the door by a Filipino maid and taken up a large curving stair case through a maze of hallways to a comfortable study. Another servant brought me a glass of fresh squeezed orange juice which I was allowed to drink despite the fact it was Ramadan, very progressive and hospitable. My student Sara and here father then greeted me and we talked about my tutoring. I get $60/hour, transportation and orange juice. I mentioned that as a new driver and new to the country I was having trouble navigating. He gave me a GPS for my car and calibrated it for Kuwait. A few more clients like this one and I will never again suffer the scourges of scurvy.

Their backyard was large by Kuwaiti standards because most mansions are build side by side and usually in family groups. This family had four houses (think 10 000 square feet each) to house the extended family. In the back yard was a large swimming pool. It was covered with sod as the government said the area was not zoned for a pool. The sod is a façade (pun intended) which can be removed to use the pool beneath, very creative.

This week we have had two dinner invitations and have met some very interesting people. Cheryl has made these contacts through the British Women’s Society and the Canadian equivalent. On Thursday night (which is the end of the week) we went to the Palm’s Palace. You know the one on Beirut Street. There we enjoyed the Iftar Buffet after the breaking of the fast. The host Robert is the CEO for a new Kuwaiti airline soon to open. The Kuwaitis supply the cash and the westerners supply the know how to make absolutely everything work here. On Friday we went to a luxury apartment where our host James ordered in Indian food. It was delivered, served and clean up all provided by the restaurant. Before eating we went swimming and enjoyed the hot tub. Our apartment is much different. James is starting up a chain of 15 home depot type stores in the Middle East. He lives in England and commutes to see his family. Fascinating people.

Last night, (Saturday night the end of the week end) we drove to the Marina Mall where there are several cafes and restaurants over looking the marina and the Gulf. It was almost “cool” enough to eat outside. We ate inside. Life here revolves around restaurants, social contacts and malls. It is what we make it and so far we are doing well.

Marty

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