Dispatch from Kuwait

Dispatch

It has been a busy week and now we are into week five in this desert country. I discovered that we really don’t need a hot water heater at this time of year, since the water for each building is stored in fiberglass tanks on the roof, it basks in the noon day sun and the evening heat, until turning on the cold tap will produce an infinite supply of very hot water.

Our apartments are the equivalent, maybe a little better, to a university dorm situation. Unfortunately, the company that owns the school did not prepare the apts for our coming. After many complaints from many teachers they began to systematically address all of the issues. Since this place is constantly covered with dust everything is coated inside and outside of buildings. Floors cupboards everything needed cleaning. Curtains and windows are dirty. We got rid of our curtains and had new ones made. Our toilets did not flush; we had cockroaches to contend with etc. Eventually, all of this has been taken care of and we, as a group of teachers, are more content.

The apartment is definitely humble, but Cheryl has found creative ways to make it look attractive, comfortable and colourful. We share a large lobby between the two apartments on our floor where we placed the couches, chairs and tables that we replaced from the apartment. We now have a common sitting area where we can visit and have a sense of more space. As the temperature gets down to the more comfortable mid 30 range in the evenings we can leave the apt door open and not feel quite so claustrophobic.

I started private tutoring for two young girls who attend the American School of Kuwait. One is studying American History and the other world history. This family is an extremely rich one. The father is an investment banker and they own a home in Beverly Hills, where they spend their summers. I was brought to the house by taxi, although they offered me one of their drivers. I was greeted at the door by a Filipino maid and taken up a large curving stair case through a maze of hallways to a comfortable study. Another servant brought me a glass of fresh squeezed orange juice which I was allowed to drink despite the fact it was Ramadan, very progressive and hospitable. My student Sara and here father then greeted me and we talked about my tutoring. I get $60/hour, transportation and orange juice. I mentioned that as a new driver and new to the country I was having trouble navigating. He gave me a GPS for my car and calibrated it for Kuwait. A few more clients like this one and I will never again suffer the scourges of scurvy.

Their backyard was large by Kuwaiti standards because most mansions are build side by side and usually in family groups. This family had four houses (think 10 000 square feet each) to house the extended family. In the back yard was a large swimming pool. It was covered with sod as the government said the area was not zoned for a pool. The sod is a façade (pun intended) which can be removed to use the pool beneath, very creative.

This week we have had two dinner invitations and have met some very interesting people. Cheryl has made these contacts through the British Women’s Society and the Canadian equivalent. On Thursday night (which is the end of the week) we went to the Palm’s Palace. You know the one on Beirut Street. There we enjoyed the Iftar Buffet after the breaking of the fast. The host Robert is the CEO for a new Kuwaiti airline soon to open. The Kuwaitis supply the cash and the westerners supply the know how to make absolutely everything work here. On Friday we went to a luxury apartment where our host James ordered in Indian food. It was delivered, served and clean up all provided by the restaurant. Before eating we went swimming and enjoyed the hot tub. Our apartment is much different. James is starting up a chain of 15 home depot type stores in the Middle East. He lives in England and commutes to see his family. Fascinating people.

Last night, (Saturday night the end of the week end) we drove to the Marina Mall where there are several cafes and restaurants over looking the marina and the Gulf. It was almost “cool” enough to eat outside. We ate inside. Life here revolves around restaurants, social contacts and malls. It is what we make it and so far we are doing well.

Marty

From My Little Corner of the World

From My Little Corner of the World

As far as schools go mine would be a good school by Canadian standards in that they have some very good teachers (moi) resources and a great ratio of teachers to students. Most Canadian students would not ever get this level of attention. Mind you this is a private school for Kuwaiti kids, but they are referred by the Ministry of Education, and although there is no such thing as a poor Kuwaiti, the government does cover all costs. If students do not attend regularly the family is actually given a $200 fine (50 kd). However, with wasta (connections) I would say very few fines ever get paid in this country.

The laws are rigidly enforced for non-white expats. Pictures are regularly run in the paper showing Pakistani smugglers, Filipino prostitutes and Bangladeshi drug dealers. Kuwaitis and white westerners generally are squeaky clean. The pictures of these criminal always show them tied at the wrists and posing in front of their illegal drugs, weapons etc. Parliament is voting soon as to whether or not the death penalty will be revoked. This country per capita is almost as bad as other regressive cultures such as Texas.

Often the police have random check stops, not looking for alcohol, just checking papers. White westerners are passed through. Duanne, our neighbour, has been stopped twice. We share a car and he simply waves my international license and he gets sent through the check point. It is comical watching a police car weave its way through traffic. The siren may be blaring but with certainty drivers will not ever get out of the way. I have seen cars cut off police cars. Police have to get on their bull horn and start yelling at the drivers to get out of the way. It’s all in Arabic, but I think there is an international word for asshole. In a parallel thought I never want to be in a Kuwaiti ambulance with or without a siren blaring.

There are good international clinics that will run every conceivable test, medicate and treat to a high standard. We know where these places are because the public hospitals, generally for non whites, are deplorable and people (patients) I have seen get treated with contempt. A teacher at school was at one of the international clinics and was amazed. She is from London, Ont and knows the Ontario system. It is a multi-tired system here and if that is the way Canada is going to go than we who are affluent will be well taken care of. In Kuwait the tiers are by social class based on birth, wealth and skin colour. I am humbled now to live as a white privileged westerner in a coloured neighbourhood of Pakistani, Egyptian and Bangladeshi.

We understand that Mr. Harper got his second minority government. This made the news here! Most Kuwaitis are of the mind that it is high time that Dion step down and give the monarchy more power. Cheryl has been in the Kuwaiti Times twice now with name and picture for her work with the Canadians in Kuwait group. She is now tied with Harper for appearances.

We had a wonderful Thanksgiving celebration and dinner at the Safir International Hotel in downtown Kuwait city with about 70 Canadians in attendance…say eh 70 times. Yes, there was turkey and cranberry sauce. The new ambassador introduced himself. He is from Edmonton. Likely the oil connection got him the job here. Cheryl has already been informing his wife where to shop, get her hair cut etc. Can you say “net working?”


Back to my school as this occupies a large part of my life here. There are about 150 students from grade K to 12. Classes are small and the kids really get lots of attention. Discipline is not a big issue. My biggest issues, in which I had to write up discipline reports, concerned food fights and swearing. In Canada I would be concerned with drugs, alcohol, many fights, absenteeism, defiance…plus I would have been told to F-off on a regular basis. At St Mary’s I avoided the halls because I didn’t always feel safe. I’m not sure what the students felt. Here it is quiet. Kids here have different issues because they live in a socialized -capitalistic state. For Kuwaitis everything is provided. They don’t have to do real work, the government provides mortgages and forgives loans, and the work week is about 15- 20 hours for a Kuwaiti. I have two members of the Sabah royal family in my classes. I don’t think they really worry about jobs after graduation.

Kuwaitis don’t have to worry about the normal financial constraints. For students they have their own drivers and sometimes tutors to do their work for them. They are a nocturnal culture, perhaps because of the heat, and kids are always tired. Although my kids are all special ed they do not expect to work or push themselves mentally or physically. I tried to start a senior squash club but there is an aversion to physical activity. The school does have soccer and a volleyball team, but not all schools do. Obesity and diabetes is a problem here. The students here are born into a system that renders them helpless. They expect, because of wealth, status, wasta, and having domestics, to have everything done for them. I think in many ways the oil money has created a useless society that depends on westerners to do everything for them. If we all left tomorrow there would be a collective call over the empty desert landscape of, “Wha Happened?”

Kids treat their nannies and drivers like shit. I have seen dear sweet little kids turn into demonic little assholes. We have a school policy as to how they can address and treat their domestics. Sadly, there are many nannies in the hospitals with broken bones and not because they are a clumsy people. Their suicide rate is also very high and some of those I would guess are not suicides. This country has a harsh interior.

I had an interview with staff from the Ministry of Education for Private Schools last week. Generally, Canadian teachers are not questioned or given any problem.. I think I am more qualified than most of them. Some teachers have been grilled. One examiner has a daughter in McMaster and we talked about Canada and my travel plans. I told them how much I like their country and my school and wished them a good evening. I have now been officially recognized and accepted into my profession.

Oddly, the thing I do not like about my school is that due to perhaps the physical layout of the school, scheduling or the alignment of the planets… I work in isolation. I rarely see another teacher for most of the day. Often I would go to the staff room just looking for someone to chat with only to find a “maid” mopping the floor. Going out of the class into the un-air conditioned hallways is onerous and it makes people tend to stick to their classrooms. I have connected with two guys who play squash here after school, but day to day is very quiet and boring. There is a quiet courtyard with green plants that are green and very green…sorry I miss plants, especially all green ones large and small. I often think about the cliché, “The grass is greener on the other side of the dune…”

From my little corner of the world…Marty

October 16,2008